‘This is Independence Square – where we have our revolutions’

Vladimir pointed out the landmarks as we drove past the tanks on display for Independence Day. Kiev has had a troubled past and many of the buildings, including the golden-domed St Michael’s cathedral, are reconstructions.

Another modern reconstruction is the Dormition Cathedral, the main church of the Lavra Cave Monastery complex. The complex originates from the eleventh century, when Anthony, an Orthodox monk and missionary settled in a cave at the Berestov Mount his disciples formed a monastic community. It has been a UNESCO World Heritage site since 1996.  Originally built in the eleventh century, the Dormition Cathedral has been destroyed several times, most recently during World War II. It was only restored once Ukraine gained independence.  At the time of our visit in August 2017 some of the murals remained to be completed.  The Gate Church of the Trinity, situated above the main entrance to the complex, survived the war and its frescoes date from an 18^th century restoration. Subjects include Biblical scenes and the Council of Nicaea.  Other notable buildings on the complex are the free-standing Bell Tower and the the nineteenth-century Refectory church, which  comprises the church of St Anthony and Theodosius and adjoining refectory where the monks ate their meals.  When we visited there seemed to be a gift shop in the refectory – in the UK there is no question that this would have housed a tearoom.

But this is a cave monastery complex.  Having explored the architecture above ground, we walked down to the catacombs.  Visitors need to buy a candle to light the way inside. My candle went out as I was negotiating the step down into the catacombs, but fortunately I was able to re-light it on a wall bracket. It was very narrow, hot and cramped in the passages. Although I do not normally suffer from claustrophobia, I couldn’t really see any of the tombs and was worried what would happen if there was an emergency and we needed to evacuate in a hurry. I later found a spot of wax on my camera from someone else’s candle.

Back in the city centre, we passed St Andrew’s church which was closed for restoration and walked down St Andrew’s descent, a street where many writers used to live.  We visited the Bulgakov Museum at no. 13, the former home of Mikhail Bulgakov, author of The Master and Margarita. The guided tour proved a challenge for my very limited Russian (the only language I had in common with the guide.) It was a very strange experience. The house was fully furnished as it would have been when Bulgakov lived there, but items that were not original were all painted white.  At one point we had to go through the back of a wardrobe – very Narnia! Emerging, blinking, into the sunlight, we continued to the bottom of the hill, where we found the Museum of One Street – a fascinating small museum with displays about the life and inhabitants of St Andrew’s descent.

The Lviv Handmade Chocolate Shop strategically situated at the bottom of the hill helpfully includes an excellent café to refresh those who have made the descent.  I tried the Chocolate Tea, largely because the idea of a ‘chocolate teapot’ (as in a container for chocolate tea, rather than the useless kind) appealed to me.  The tea was surprisingly quite drinkable, though rather sweet.

We visited Kiev in August 2017